Hawes vs Robin Hood's Bay: Which North Yorkshire Base to Choose
2 The Square, Grassington: Honest Verdict for Solo Young Travellers
Two of North Yorkshire's most loved spots sit at opposite ends of the Dales and the coast — and the right pick depends entirely on how you want to spend your days.
Where each place actually is
Hawes sits in upper Wensleydale, roughly 26 miles west of Leyburn and an hour's drive from the A1 at Leeming. The nearest station is Garsdale on the Settle-Carlisle line, about six miles up the A684, served by a handful of trains daily. Robin Hood's Bay is on the coast, seven miles south of Whitby and roughly 15 minutes by car, or a brisk hour on the Cinder Track walking path. Whitby is the nearest station. If you are arriving by train without a car, the Bay wins comfortably — Whitby has regular connections via Middlesbrough, while Garsdale leaves you dependent on taxis.
Driving times matter more than map distances here. Hawes to York is around 75 minutes; Robin Hood's Bay to York is closer to 90. From Hawes you can reach Sedbergh in 25 minutes and Kirkby Stephen in 30. From the Bay, Scarborough is 30 minutes and Pickering about 45. Neither is a quick hop from the other — the cross-country route via Thirsk and the A170 takes close to two hours.
What you do once you are there
Hawes is a compact market town with a river running through it, a Tuesday market, and easy access to Hardraw Force and the Buttertubs Pass. Aysgarth Falls is 20 minutes east. Walkers get the Pennine Way, the Dales Way and dozens of shorter loops straight from the door. The Wensleydale Creamery draws coaches, so midday in summer is busy. Best months are May, June and September. July and August bring crowds and full car parks by 10am.
Robin Hood's Bay is a village stacked down a cliff to a small beach, with narrow cobbled lanes and no through traffic. At low tide you can walk the shore to Boggle Hole, around 1.5 miles. Whitby Abbey, Sandsend and Runswick Bay are short drives. The Cinder Track is flat and good for cycling. Sea fret is real: mornings in May and June can be grey until noon. The best weather is usually late June to early September. Winter is atmospheric but many places close midweek from November to February.
Who each one suits
Choose Hawes if you want high moorland, waterfalls, walking from the doorstep and a proper market-town feel with a butcher, a baker and a couple of good pubs. It suits couples, walkers and anyone who values quiet evenings over a bar scene. It does not suit anyone wanting a beach, and it is awkward without a car. Hotel stock is limited: a handful of inns, a few B&Bs and self-catering cottages. In peak season expect to pay more than you would in Leyburn or Richmond.
Choose Robin Hood's Bay if you want sea air, cliff paths, rock pools and a village where you can park once and forget the car. It suits families, dog owners and anyone combining coast with moorland day trips to Goathland and Pickering. The trade-off is steep cobbled streets — not ideal with a pram or limited mobility — and parking is tight and often charged. There are more hotels and guesthouses than in Hawes, but the best rooms go months ahead for summer weekends.
Which one I would book
For a three-night trip between May and September, I would book Hawes for a walking-focused stay and Robin Hood's Bay for a coastal one. If you have a week, split them: three nights in Wensleydale, two on the coast, using the A684 and A1 to link them. That covers both landscapes without long daily drives. If you can only pick one and you are travelling by train, the Bay is the practical answer.
Book early for both. Hawes has few rooms relative to demand in June and September, and Robin Hood's Bay fills fast for school holidays and weekends. Avoid arriving on a summer Saturday afternoon without a reservation. Skip Hawes on a wet bank-holiday Monday if you dislike coach traffic, and skip the Bay's lower village at midday in August if you want photographs without crowds. Early mornings belong to whoever stayed the night.
Before you book
The questions people ask about Grassington, answered with this month’s numbers.
Yes, but allow two hours each way by car via the A684, A1 and A170. Splitting a week between them works well; a day trip from one to the other leaves little time to explore either properly.
Robin Hood's Bay, thanks to the beach, rock pools and easy Whitby day trips. The cobbled hill is steep, so pack light and expect to carry toddlers on the way back up.
It helps considerably. Garsdale station is six miles away with limited trains, and most Dales attractions sit beyond walking distance. Without a car you are reliant on taxis or guided walks.
